As a longtime Bay Area resident, I instinctively take “going to the beach” to mean driving to and setting up camp “somewhere along the coast between Santa Cruz and Carmel.” Growing up in San Jose, I became very familiar with Highway 17, an indispensable mountain route that carries both commuting and adventure-seeking traffic to and from Silicon Valley as it winds through the Santa Cruz Mountains. Furthermore, after over a decade of living in the city, I’ve easily abandoned the notion of waiting for those three or so 80 F days (spread over our rather delayed summer season) to cram into one of the beautiful-when-you’re-not-freezing beaches here in S.F.

And so, with both the willingness and wherewithal to procure some wheels (currently a zero-car family), my partner and I recently set about slowly (and safely—vaxed up and masked wherever appropriate) reclaiming a portion of the summer we were intending to have last year. Without too much contemplation, we kicked things off in mid-August by indulging in a “gateway vacay” of a long weekend at the beach (with a basecamp in the mountains), including stops and stays in Half Moon Bay, Ben Lomond, Santa Cruz, Capitola, and Carmel.

DAY 1: Half Moon Bay & Ben Lomond

On The 1

Driving down to Monterey Bay from San Francisco comes with a built-in bonus: unadulterated ocean views all along coastal Highway 1. Sure, it takes a little bit longer than the Google-recommended inland route, but if you’re making your way to a relaxing summer getaway, what’s an extra half-hour with soothing surf by your side?

The next delight of our trip came in the form of roadside treasure Dad’s Luncheonette, located just off Highway 1 in Half Moon Bay. The kitschy converted train caboose serves up a small gourmet menu featuring premium ingredients, most of which are organic and “locally and responsibly sourced.” Spotting meaty, flavorful maitake (a.k.a. Hen-of-the-Woods) mushrooms on the list, I wasted no time in ordering the main vegetarian “entrée,” the aptly-named Mushroom Sandwich. Additionally packed with melty cheese, pickled red onion, oak lettuce, and a richly-yolked fried egg to boot, this hefty handful did not disappoint. I highly recommend enjoying this lunch item with Dad’s crunchy, nooch-sprinkled Homemade Potato Chips, some cold beer, and an ocean view!

With bellies full and spirits refreshed, we popped back into the car and motored down the 1, and then into the mountains, to get to our first (planned) adventure: some pre-beach forest bathing.

Hiking Among the Redwoods

Since we had decided on Ben Lomond as our base for coastal day trips, it only made sense for us to take advantage of its proximity to neighboring Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park. The single item on our agenda that afternoon was a leisurely hike through groves of venerable trees, providing us with a most serene introduction to our vacation.

On our visit, we discovered that several trails had been closed due to fire damage (making the routes potentially unsafe); however, there was still plenty of lush vegetation, wildlife sounds, and little hand-dips into cool, refreshing creek water to enjoy along the way.

Our Mountain Cabin Stay

After a relatively short (couple hours) but satisfying hike, we found our Airbnb for the night (and weekend) in Ben Lomond, grabbed a few grocery items from the nearby market for dinner, and settled in for some pre-sunset skygazing on the deck.

DAY 2: Santa Cruz

Beach Time

Around noon on our first full day away, we set off for a quick tour of Downtown since my partner hadn’t spent much time around there on his past trips. We took a leisurely jaunt down the main street of Pacific Avenue, surveying the variety of shops, restaurants, and entertainment venues bordering the tree-lined thoroughfare. We eventually decided it wasn’t going to be a shopping kind of day after all and headed right back up the street to New Leaf Market for some picnic lunch provisions. After perusing the Whole Foods-type grocery store, we settled on a selection of pre-made cold sandwiches and salads (including a decent Egg Salad Sandwich and rather tasty tamari-dressed Kale Salad), along with some beer and coconut water.

Next stop, the beach!

Originally intending to hang out at the beach nearest the Boardwalk (mostly for the iconic setting), then put off by the $20 parking fee (and the crowds, to be honest), we quickly changed course and headed next door to Seabright Beach. This detour turned out to be most rewarding, as Seabright offered a much more relaxed and peaceful vibe, complete with a picturesque lighthouse to cap off a very active (seriously, there was a rip current warning) and attractive surfline.

We effortless whiled away several hours at Seabright, picking our way up and down beach, coquettishly dodging the boisterous surf (and laughing along with everyone else partaking in this child’s delight), sitting or laying out on the towel for spells as the afternoon clouds rolled overhead. The water was still fairly cold (plus the aforementioned rip current warning), so the sea remained unswum this time; otherwise, for future reference, Seabright seemed like a fantastic spot for low-key boogie boarding and short ocean dips.

Evening in Town

To top off a day of feeling like laid-back locals, we left the beach for a neighborhood “party” of sorts in Midtown (officially known as “Midtown Fridays,” established in late May 2021). Right around Soquel and Seabright (next to the fire station), we found a cozy outdoor space featuring a handful of food and merchandise vendors and a grassy stage for local musicians. At the shindig, we bumped into our Airbnb host (who had tipped us off to the event) and enjoyed a nice chat while grooving to The Doobie Brothers on the sidewalk. Pretty sweet!

By early evening we had built up quite an appetite; lunch was several hours in the past, plus we had (unsuccessfully) sustained a seagull attack on the rest of our unguarded picnic food (I know, total noobs). Craving a “sit-down” dining experience to switch things up, we ended up heading back to the Downtown area to scope out some restaurants, as most places around where we were in Midtown were takeout joints (or didn’t offer outdoor seating—we are being extra careful these days).

After surveying the full-capacity peak-dinnertime scene developing at several patios, we decided to just park a few blocks off the main drag and stroll around, hoping to chance upon something good. Luckily, after some rapid Yelp-ing, we found Mozaic, a Mediterranean restaurant on Church Street, where we tucked into generous helpings of crusty bread dipped in a pesto-like green sauce (it was a complimentary appetizer that I’ll let remain a tasty mystery), a tequila-based and rosewater-laced cocktail called the Garden Rose (which I imagine would be even more refreshing on a warmer day), the Middle Eastern Combo Platter (featuring chicken thighs, gyros, rice pilaf, and plenty of hummus), and the “house special” Mozaic Paella (a saucier version of the Spanish staple that really delivered on the seafood).

We were stuffed to the brim after that feast and opted to forego dessert. At the end of what seemed like a long day out, we also found ourselves craving our cozy perch in the woods, where a quiet evening on the deck with a digestif in hand would more than do.

DAY 3: Capitola & Carmel

Salads, Sandwiches, and Surfers

We got up a bit earlier on the second morning of our getaway, having been rejuvenated by all that beach time the day before. We had plans to head straight to Carmel (about an hour’s drive from Santa Cruz, so roughly an hour and a half for us coming from Ben Lomond), with a takeout lunch somewhere along the way. I should say that there was actually no doubt about where we would find that food stop, as Gayle’s Bakery in Capitola came very highly recommended way in advance by my mom (who is quite the traveler and culinary connoisseur).

Mom’s recommendation did not disappoint! While it was easy to be overwhelmed by the bevy of prepared salads, sandwiches, breads, and pastries on full display at their giant wraparound service counter (plus being engulfed by our fellow weekend beachgoers), we came away with all excellent albeit frenzied choices: our to-go bag included Creamy Lemon Kale and Crunch Broccoli & Pecan salads, along with an Almond Tarragon Chicken Salad Croissant, a Turkey BLT Ficelle, a Kouign-Amann and a Bearclaw for dessert, and some beer and hard kombucha to round it all out. It seems that you can’t really go wrong at Gayle’s, though, so if you get the chance, go ahead and be adventurous as you explore the rest of their dazzling menu!

As soon as we held that goldmine of a lunchbag, we realized that there was no way we were driving another hour or so before partaking, so we took an impromptu detour towards Capitola Beach. From Gayle’s, we easily zipped over to the Beach and Village Parking Lot, which boasted $0.50/hr. rates and a leisurely 10-15 minute walk to the beach right through a maze of charming little seaside shops.

The main beach area was packed to the gills when we got there, so we walked a little bit further into Esplanade Park in search of a less hectic picnic spot. On the left, if you go up the steps onto a bit of a terrace walk, you’ll be rewarded with a freer view of the ocean and all the fun surfing activity going on right below. We set up shop and got to picnicking here straightaway!

Further South

While we easily could have surfer-watched for the rest of the afternoon (maybe with a snack refill trip back to Gayle’s), some white sand beaches were calling to us further south. After about an hour’s drive to Carmel, with more than enough time for our premeditated beach visit before our dinner reservation, we made our way to the entrance to the famed 17-Mile Drive. But alas! The route was closed to non-residents for some reason, so we headed straight to Carmel Beach instead.

Most defined by and known for its pale ecru sand and surrounding cypress trees shaped by Mother Nature’s wildest winds, Carmel Beach has a visual flavor all its own. Interestingly, it’s on the grayer days that the distinct beauty of this section of coast shines most; filtered by a subtle layer of fog, the sun’s rays transform the sky into a giant softbox, further highlighting the already luminous sand and surf.

Further inland, Car Week was in full swing (what are the chances we would pick this weekend to visit unwittingly?), and while I do find well-maintained vintage roadsters an amusing sight to behold from time to time, this particular congregation of mostly flashy, souped-up automobiles crammed into every intersection and available parking spot along the compact, hilly streets of Downtown Carmel was really not my scene. After just a bit of posh post-beach strolling about town and a quick relocation of our downtown parking spot (dinner would put us past our 2-hour window), we eagerly coasted into our 6:30 reservation at Basil Seasonal Dining Restaurant. Located on one of the myriad charming little side-streets off the main street of Ocean Avenue, the Basil menu offered a sizable selection of locally-sourced, Italian-inspired seafood dishes, among other seasonally-appropriate fare.

DAY 4: Santa Cruz & Half Moon Bay

One Last Beach

On the last morning of vacation, we again took our time getting ready at the cabin, soaking up the silence and smells of the mountain woods. We took a few more photos of our digs (okay, and a few selfies in the sun) for personal memory-keeping, tidied up, packed the car, and bid a grateful goodbye to our home for the weekend.

For one last toes-in-the-sand experience before heading back up north, we stopped at Natural Bridges Beach on the southwestern edge of Santa Cruz. If you’re looking for a cozy “neighborhood beach” (with decently sized and easily accessible restrooms), Natural Bridges is the spot for you. It’s the western endpoint of West Cliff Drive, a scenic shoreline walking/driving/biking route for locals and visitors alike, close to which you should definitely endeavor to book a future Airbnb.

We spent a short while at this beach, just enough to enjoy the unique natural features of the area and to fill our lungs with a bit more sea breeze before hitting the road again for our longer drive home.

Back on the 1

Popping back onto Highway 1 in search of lunch, I fully embraced the possibility of yet another casual gourmet meal at Dad’s Luncheonette. However, the traveler in me rallied for something new. Enter a fortuitous, googling-on-the-way surprise: Taqueria La Gallina, a no-frills taco (and fried chicken, and burgers—we were intrigued!) takeaway spot just across the highway from Dad’s in Half Moon Bay. All the seaside summer-ing had put me in a major mood for fish tacos, and Taqueria La Gallina turned out to be just the place to get my fill.

They really made that un-breaded tilapia sing with an avalanche of fresh cabbage and pico de gallo and a dousing of the perfect spicy-smoky-sweet chipotle dressing that truly must have been some kind of secret super sauce. And yes, we got to enjoy lunch with an ocean view, once again!

The last delight of the trip was stumbling upon Surfer’s Beach, just up the coast from the taqueria. With no parking fees (lacking a designated lot, visitors just snag a spot alongside the highway), a decently-sized open grassy area, and a few picnic tables, it was exactly the setting we needed for our taqueria takeaway picnic.

Back on the highway, passing beach turnout after beach turnout really drove the point home for me—I’m incredibly lucky to live in California (as my East Coast-born partner always reminds me), and I’m incredibly thankful for having largely unfettered access to the most beautiful natural surroundings (and tastiest food) pretty much at any time of my choosing.

As we symbolically turned the page on our summer weekend getaway by diving into Karl’s great foggy arms somewhere around Daly City, I felt reassured in my belief that travel doesn’t need to be a grand production in order to bring joy and satisfaction. My best memories of this trip, as I’ve often found, lie in the small moments: the first time my nose picked up on the cool, earthy scent of forest trees on our hike, sitting and sipping in savored silence on the cabin deck, feeling the warmth of the sun on my back at the beach, gushing over no-frills food finds with an equally stoked companion. May we all delight in slow travel and the smaller adventures of life!